"This is the end....."-Portomarin to Santiago

By the time you get to Portmarin there are only 98 km to walk and we decided to do 88 km in three days and leave us a short day into the city where we´d have plenty of time to wash clothes, get haircuts and look around. Jill was arriving on the next day so I was very, very happy.

On the way our "digs" in Ponta Campagna were brilliant. The owners of the alburgue had converted a water mill where we had a room. We ate home-cooked Galician food in the communal dining room of the albergue with lots of others and had a great meal for 10 euro (inc wine).

I expected an easy run in from there but we crossed river valley after river valley and there were plenty of climbs and descents in this very green and pleasant land. After all this time I´m much better equipped to do the climbs having lost a bit of weight and being much fitter.

By this stage we were both looking forward to finishing. A few days of damp weather meant stuff we'd washed hadn't dried so we had no dry clothes to wear and, to be honest, we did pong a bit.We were both very happy to walk into the cathedral square but it started to rain (it rains as much here as it does in Wales). We were looking forward to seeing friends in the square but the rain kept everyone inside so it was a bit of an anti-climax.

Friday was a different day and the sun shone. I picked Jill up from the airport and we joined Irv in the city and met many of the people we´d walked with along the camino. This is a young man, Kepa, who we´d been bumping into over the last ten days or so and we bumped into him again in Santiago. He is part of a crazy American family. Mum and Gran have carried him for 500 miles while his Dad has carried the big rucksack. Not only do they have to walk this very hard trail but they have to look after a 13 month old lad and carry all the stuff you need, like nappies. He's been photographed so many times that whenever a camera is pointed at him he beams-true professional. Inspirational people. I only had to look after Irv and that was tough enough.

Talking of Irv, we´ve had a great time together. It´s been a real pleasure to travel with him and we´ve laughed and sung all the way. The Camino is a tough challenge and it´s nice to have someone to share the hard times along the way. Our daily brunch of tortilla and beer was always a high point of my day.

We were both awarded our "Compostellas" (the certificates confirming that the pilgrimage was completed) and had a look around the cathedral.The photo outside marked the end of this part of our journey.

Like the pre-Christian Celts we´re off to Fisterra (the Gallician one) but in a hire car. By chance we'll be there to celebrate the summer solstice. The trip began with the sun coming up from the east as we crossed the channel and I hope to finish it by watching the sun set in the west from the "end of the world" of the ancients. One more blog from there and that's all.

"It´s such a perfect day"-Pontferrada to Portomarin

The walk from Pontferrada to Villafranca was lovely as we walked through vineyards and little villages.

We were truly ripped off for two cold cokes by a wiley local but when we asked him about the vines he got a bottle out and charged our mugs with tinto. He regaled us with stories of how he´d exhibited at various wine fairs all over Europe. A real character.

Villafranca is a nice place with tons of old buildings but we were so tired we stayed on the same side of the bridge as our albergue, had a meal then a brandy in a little bar overlooking the ancient bridge and watching the house martins.

We knew the climb to the Alto de Poyo, the last major ascent before Santiago, would be tough so we decided to book a hotel about 2.5km before the top and spread the climb over two days. The climb takes you into Gallicia, the last province on the Camino and we struck lucky in our choice. The views from our albergue were wonderful, a bit like parts of north Wales. Gallician music (a bit like Breton music-You tube Alain Stivell for a listen) was playing out of the bar and the sun was shining. We sat drinking tinto and watching the pilgrims compete for space with the village cows-celtic heaven on earth. Best day on the Camino.

The next day we walked up to the summit from where the views are spectacular.

After a steep descent the camino makes its way through Gallician country lanes much like you´d see in Devon (but with little stone bridges over the streams).

I wasn´t expecting much from Portomarin as it´s a new town; the old one having been "drowned" by a reservoir. How wrong could I be? They´d moved a lot of the old buildings up to the new town and it was brilliant. The day we arrived there a band was playing Gallician music and a there was a

car rally. Photo for my brother Dave.

We´re not that far from Santiago now but have a few heavy days of walking to get within 10km for the walk into town on 20th. So looking forward to seeing Jill on 21st. One more blog when I get to Santiago.

"....dros y mynydd...." Leon to Pontferrada

After a couple of days in Leon it was time to hit the road. Couldn´t resist another picture of storks, this time an urban couple with a young one who had nested on top of a Roman pillar in the old part of the city. very good address. We had a couple of days of steady climb towards the mountains and along the way met a young man giving out hot and cold drinks and fruit from the back of a cart. It was all free and he asked only for a donation. He lived in the shack behind and had no electricity nor water yet he devoted himself to helping pilgrims. Lovely guy.

But the mountains were calling and we headed on towards Astorga. The choice of accom here was a 90 bed municipal hostel (5 euro each) and the 3 star hotel in the Plazza Mayor (34 euro each) with terrific views of the old town hall.. No contest and we revelled in the luxury of it all. Real bacon and scrambled eggs for breakfast as well.

The next day was a steady climb to Rabanal in preparation for the climb up to the Cruz de Fer, the huge cross under which pilgrims traditionally leave a pebble. They also leave other stuff likes flags and shoes so this romantic spot looks like a bit like a rubbish tip. The weather at the top is notoriously fickle and on the day we did it the weather was a mixture of low cloud, fine rain and very cold. If I wanted weather like that I´d go to Rhyader in November. For the first time I asked myself what I was doing on the camino. I could be scoffing cozze and linguini with Jill and having a leisurely float in my rubber ring in the Adariatic. I was not a happy pilgrim. My mood changed when we emerged into the sunshine and relative warmth of the next valley.

We were also sad to "lose" two of our travelling companions who had to press on to Santiago. We met Suzanne from Vancouver when she heard us singing "Try to catch the wind" and came over to talk to us about the song. We have eaten meals with her many evenings and we´ve laughed together at the absurdity of our trip. If you read this Susanne have a great time with husband and daughter on tour. Sonja, from Chicago, has also had to hurry on. The phrase "Camino chic" is an oxymoron but she was able to pull it off with a sun hat which was part Beau Geste and part T.E. Lawrence. Here she is warming herself in front of the fire in a hostel just before the Cruz de Fer.

Some of the villages in the mountains are very like the sort you see in the Alps but much more run-down.

The town of Ponferrada (maybe it isn´t spelled quite like that) awaited us with it´s great Templar fortress which we were really looking forward to seeing. Being a Monday it was shut and without a  siege ladder we just had to accept it.

My Spanish is coming along but I do use the odd bit of French and Italian when I´m stuck, Irv has a Masters in Linguistics and cringes at my attempts but it seems to work for me. I even got my blood tested in Leon hospital where none of the staff spoke English. I love Spanish though. Can you believe you can say things like "Eh hombre, que passa" and not feel like an extra in a poor Western movie.

Next few days we´re up country then in the mountains but now less than 200 km to go. "Hasta la vista".

"I´m walking on sunshine" - Burgos to Leon

This is the killer stretch in the middle of the camino; 180km through the country with a lot of it on the high Meseata where the wind can really blow. It was difficult to leave Burgos which is a fine city and a spectacular cathedral, if a bit sombre and dark in only the way the Spanish art and iconography can be.

We have decided to keep staying in small hostels although we have been to a few of the refuges. The one we went to a day out of Burgos had a bed bug problem although it seems to have been limited to another dormitory (a South African lady we met said her bed was infested) as we haven´t had a problem. Someone told us, counter-intiuitavely, the way to avoid them is sleep naked under the woolen blankets rather than sleep in you clothes and bag (they get into the linings apparently) and have as hot a shower as you can stand the next day. No, it doesn´t work for me either. Having said that we know lots of people who stay in refuges every night and most have not had a problem. I think it gives a more authentic pilgrim experience but I hate being woken by pilgrims with head torches at 5.00 am getting ready to hit the road. It just shows that everyone does the Camino in their own way though.

We´ve met some really nice people from all over the world. The most inspiring person is an Aussie lady (left) who has a swollen foot so big that she can´t get her walking boot on and she is doing 20 plus km per day in a pair of shoes. Well done Robyn. When I´m cursing my blisters I think of you. We are walking at about the same pace as two German brothers named Hans and Pieter, Irish Allan and Murray the Kiwi who would pass for a Tolkein wizard (apart from his hiking shorts). We have the "Pilgrim meal" (8-10 euro for three course and wine-plain cooking) together some nights with one or two other people joining in.

Irv and I walk together sometimes, talking, laughing and singing. At other times he goes off like a little West Wales whippet with his walking poles clacking like a metronome. At times like this we are alone with our own thoughts. He´s teaching me a lot about birds and I can recognise a corn bunting from a yellow hammer amd a crested finch from a Spanish sparrow. My favourites are still the storks who have beautiful rituals (like stretching their necks over their backs then clacking their great beaks) when their mate returns to the nest.

This particular bird has changed his plummage as the weather has improved. The Goretex has been shed and he now wears khaki shorts (a la Lofty), T-shirt and straw hat bought locally. My waist is shrinking (it looks as if my head is pin sized in this shot but it is only perspective I can assure you). Now the weather has got better the whole think has become a bit more like the film "The Way" with pilgrims meeting old friends outside sunny wayside bars. The first few weeks were more like Napoleon´s retreat from Moscow. We have been told that two walkers died on the way over to Roncesvalles so the early bit of the walk is still dangerous.

The countryside is spectacular but there are a heck of a lot of big wind farms here; enough to scare Don Quixote perhaps. The majority of the walking has been "up country" where we´ve stayed in villages (pop 250 or thereabouts) where a lot of houses are literally falling down. Once in a while we´ve hit a bigger town and seen some great architecture like this perfect Romanesque church in Fromista.

A tough 180km but now we have a day in Leon to rest our legs before the next push towards Santiago.